Saint Laurent displays its fall-winter 2023 collection at the renovated Mercantile Exchange in Tadao Ando
French fashion house Saint Laurent has launched its fall/winter 2023 menswear collection at the historic Bourse de Trading in Paris, which was recently renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando.
The Saint Laurent show took place inside the Parisian Art Museum on the evening of January 17, 2023, and marked Saint Laurent’s first menswear show in Paris under its current creative director, Anthony Vaccarello.
Held inside the renovated Ando Bourse de Commerce – Pinault rotunda, the show kicked off on the first day of the fall-winter 2023 menswear season at Paris Fashion Week.
A continuous row of seating, in the form of a black leather De Sede DS-600 sofa, wraps around the entire interior perimeter of the cylindrical concrete wall exhibition space measuring 29 meters wide and nine meters high.
A plush, stone-colored carpet covered the floors of the circular room beneath what was to be the grandstand and leather-trimmed audience seating.
“Art and Saint Laurent have been in cahoots from the beginning, making Japanese architect Tadao Ando’s radical structure — within the structure — a natural setting for tonight’s brief and intimate show,” Saint Laurent said in the show notes.
“The gleaming concrete cylinder echoes the luminous circle at the center of the brand’s latest menswear display, and almost inadvertently, the O-shape, a symbol of perfection and purity of execution, becomes a recurring and pertinent thread at Saint Laurent.”
The interior was dimly lit by spotlights neatly arranged along the walls of the concrete space behind one row of seats.
A grand piano, skewed off-center, is placed in the middle of the exhibition space below the 19th-century fresco that adorns the ceiling of the circular glass alcove.
As part of Ando’s three-year restoration and renovation, the architect added the monolithic tubular concrete volume within the glass-domed rotunda at the heart of the building, which also doubles as a viewing platform accessed via a staircase that runs the length of the building’s exterior. wall.
The cylindrical concrete volume extends into the lower floor of the building to form a great hall while also connecting the ground floor of the rotunda to the upper levels of the building, which have been similarly refurbished and restored by the studio.
The French businessman and founder of Francois Pinault Saint Laurent’s Kering luxury group, commissioned Ando for the renovation and restoration project in 2017 in order to showcase his collection of around 5,000 works of art.
Vaccarello explained that the show was a continuation of his spring/summer 2023 show in the Moroccan desert, which saw London-based artist and decorator S Devlin install a circular pool and glow ring amidst the red sand dunes of the Avajai Desert.
“A continuation of previous seasons, Saint Laurent’s latest collection showcases Anthony Vaccarello’s cutting-edge vision in the Rotunda of the Mercantile Exchange – the Pino Collection,” the statement read.
Vaccarello introduced hoodies and floor-length coats throughout the show, which were particularly seen at his Spring/Summer 2023 womenswear show in 2022.
By repeating such silhouettes, Vaccarello demonstrated that his men’s and women’s clothing under Saint Laurent were interchangeable.
“I want them to be almost one person,” he told Vogue. “Men go to women and women go to men.”
In 2021, American artist Doug Aitken built a multi-colored catwalk, composed of mirrors and plants, for Saint Laurent’s spring-summer 2022 show in Venice, Italy.
Photography by Saint Laurent.