First look at Phoebe Philo’s new signature collection – WWD

First look at Phoebe Philo’s new signature collection – WWD

The most anticipated collection of 2023 was finally revealed to the press last Friday during one-on-one appointments in a bright and airy London showroom, with clothes hung on racks and jewelery and accessories displayed on tables.

Phoebe Philo was not physically present, but her incomparable handwriting was. The collection embodied her penchant for luxurious fabrics and impeccable manufacturing, unexpected embellishments in size or texture, and feminine silhouettes with a modern twist.

These sometimes largely unadorned monastic clothing might be classified by some as quiet luxury. Colors did not move much beyond black, white, olive, and oxblood, and prints were almost nonexistent. However, it was more interesting and not serene, with each garment hiding some sly or subversive surprise or juicy detail.

Consider the bondage straps that hug the knees of tailored pants; Zippers extend all the way up the back of each leg of five-pocket flared jeans, or the sleeves of oversized jackets and jackets that are sturdily designed to keep creases at bay.

Ever since fashionistas stormed the doors of Claude Montana’s Paris shows in the 1980s, leather coats and coats with sexy batwing sleeves have emerged.

There was an early Martin Margiela fragrance for some bold and innovative dressmaking and tailoring.

The double-breasted philo suits, inspired by menswear, were beautiful. The shoulders shown were slanted forward, and the waists were bent like an hourglass. Her short, asymmetrical, scarf-like dress was made of soft, heavy satin protecting a bodysuit.

The looks were mainly chic, roomy and polished, with a few outliers, including four-way stretch leggings with a gradient wave pattern on the outer thighs, and a red striped ski jacket with a bold graphic.

There were also surprises, including leather bags large enough to hold a microwave; Bodysuits, bondage belts, and swimsuits studded with shiny orbs, and a series of bias-cut coats and dresses and satin panties drenched in dense, thread-like embroideries.

A look from the first “edit” of Phoebe Philo, the name she uses to describe her off-season collections.

Courtesy of Phoebe Philo

Philo’s first designs under her new premium brand, which she has been incubating for over three years, cover the gamut of categories, including ready-to-wear, shoes, handbags, jewelery and eyewear.

The jewelry was standout, and included a chunky necklace with the word “mama” repeated in 23-karat gold, a nod to motherhood (Philo has three children) — or perhaps to the quiet maturity of this collection.

A flexible gold bracelet and rectangular ring had an ancient Egyptian feel, while a pair of tile drop earrings had an Art Deco feel. The oversized, black, square sunglasses were intended for maximum coverage.

Sunglasses and jewelry are among the accessories in the first edition.

Courtesy of Phoebe Philo

The British designer considers this her “editorial” debut, and the first batch of her three deliveries will be available to purchase from Monday exclusively on her website.

She plans to release future edits according to her own schedule, rather than a uniform fashion calendar. She sees her designs as seasonal and part of a work in progress.

The debut looked similar to Philo’s 2009 arrival at Celine’s helm in Paris, when she also hosted a presentation at the showroom.

In that time, she unveiled a collection of bags that would become iconic, revealing an approach to fashion – simple in direction, yet full of fashion excitement – ​​that attracted a cult-like following among her female customers, and generated a body of desire. Be the vibe.

Once again, her carefully considered designs are conceptual and intellectual in nature, with campaign images designed to appeal to the female eye. She recruited a diverse crew of women and a few men—some from the streets of Athens—for a series of artistic images that would populate the new website and be sent to fashion media outlets.

Canadian model Daria Werbowy, a favorite of Philo’s, is also back.

Daria Werbowy in the Phoebe Philo campaign.

Courtesy of Phoebe Philo

However, there is a lot that is new in the fashion house you are building. She plans to make it as sustainable as possible, primarily by calibrating quantities so that they don’t meet demand and getting rid of overproduction – perhaps the biggest scourge in the fashion industry.

“As part of our determination to address the overall environmental impact, our focus is on material issues such as overconsumption, waste and the fashion supply chain. Our goal is to create a product that reflects permanence,” the fashion house said in a succinct statement on the points.

“Phoebe Philo’s business model is designed to create a responsible balance between production and demand. For us, this means producing much less than expected.”

Anticipation has reached peak levels since Philo revealed in July 2021 that it would return to fashion with a new standalone home, and with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a minority investor.

Her Instagram account, which currently has no posts, has 287,000 followers, and legions of potential customers are understood to have signed up at to receive updates, the first of which was the reveal of the October 30 release of the First Amendment, dubbed A1.

It consists of 150 designs, with the first of three deliveries being the most significant in terms of volume. The second version, the A2, will arrive in spring 2024.

Retail prices for the A1 range from $1,400 to $2,400 for the pants; $2,200 to $8,500 for dresses; $3,600 to $4,800 for knitting; $3,600 to $4,500 for tailored jackets; From $6,900 to $12,000 for leather jackets, and $16,500 to $25,000 for fur jackets. Prices for shoes range from $1,100 to $1,750 and handbags from $3,500 to $8,500.

Most of the collection is manufactured in Italy. Initially, Philo’s online store will ship to addresses in the UK, Europe and the US

WWD broke the news in February 2020 that Philo had begun planning a new collection and was interviewing designers.

She’s not a fan of interviews or statements and prefers to let her products do the talking, and she hasn’t said much since confirming her return to fashion in July 2021.

At that time, she pledged to create clothing and accessories “rooted in exceptional quality and design.”

“Being in my studio and performing again has been incredibly exciting and satisfying,” she added in this brief statement. “I’m very much looking forward to getting back in touch with my fans and people everywhere. Being independent and judging and experimenting on my own terms is of great importance to me.

One of the most respected — and bankable — designers of her generation, she is perhaps best known for designing the brand’s revamp at LVMH-owned Celine. Season after season, she creates coveted clothing and statement handbags, gaining a fiercely loyal fan base.

A graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, Philo was a classmate of Stella McCartney and worked with her when McCartney launched her own collection after graduating. Philo followed McCartney to Chloe in 1997 and took over the top job in 2001 when McCartney left to set up her own fashion house in a joint venture with the Gucci Group.

Phoebe Philo

Courtesy of Phoebe Philo

With her amazing personal style, Philo accelerated Chloé’s rejuvenation and propelled her into the high-margin leather goods business.

She was known for fashions that skillfully mixed masculine elements such as trousers with feminine garments such as ruffled blouses. During her tenure, Chloé’s look was widely emulated by fast fashion chains and she created successful handbags such as the Paddington and Silverado.

She resigned from Chloe in 2006 for personal reasons, due to her desire to spend more time with her young children.

Three years later, after lengthy discussions with LVMH about launching a namesake brand, Philo took over leadership of Celine. The brand provided an immediate platform for its designs, stores in the best locations around the world, and factories for leather goods.

There, Philo debuted a more modern, minimalist aesthetic tinged with artistic touches. Her collections exceeded all revenue expectations and received widespread acclaim despite her reticence about e-commerce and her independent policy with the press.

The designer has kept a low profile since his exit from Celine at the end of 2017, and it seems he prefers things that way.

– With contributions from Samantha Conti

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